Swimming pigs and the Exuma Cays
What a boat day to the cays involves, the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, and how to choose a tour from Great Exuma.
The famous Exuma pictures, pigs paddling in turquoise water, nurse sharks under a dock, a grotto lit from below, are all taken in the cays north of Great Exuma. From George Town they are a full day by boat. Tours leave early, run eight hours or more and are entirely at the mercy of the weather.
The usual stops
A classic full-day tour visits the swimming pigs at Big Major Cay, Thunderball Grotto beside Staniel Cay, where the James Bond film was shot, the nurse sharks that gather around the dock at Compass Cay, the rock iguanas on Bitter Guana Cay, and a sandbar or two for lunch. Shorter tours stay closer to Great Exuma and visit sandbars, reefs and beaches around Elizabeth Harbour and Moriah Harbour Cay.
Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park
The northern cays include the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, established in 1958 and the first marine reserve in the Bahamas. It is a no-take zone managed by the Bahamas National Trust: nothing may be fished, collected or removed, not even a shell. Boats pay anchoring or mooring fees, and wardens at Warderick Wells patrol the park. Tour operators handle the paperwork, but the rules apply to you too.
Choosing a tour
Tours leave from George Town, Barraterre at the northern tip of Great Exuma, and the Emerald Bay area. Group tours are cheaper; private charters set their own route and pace. Ask what is included (lunch, drinks, snorkel gear), how many people will be aboard, and what happens if the weather turns. Book several days ahead in high season and keep one flexible day in your plans in case of a cancellation.
Being a good guest
Feed the pigs only what your guide gives you and only from the boat or the beach as instructed, keep your hands off the sharks, rays and iguanas, and leave the sand and shells where they are. Reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and a dry bag make the day much better. Most of the day is in open boats, so bring a layer for the ride home.